AOD/E/4R Transmission 101

[SilverFox]

AOD/E/4R Transmission 101:

Questions/comments Post here http://www.clickclickracing.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21949#post21949

For you many automatic transmission noobs, this thread is dedicated to crash course the masses on how this transmission works and straighten up some terminology. Nothing I hate more than chevy trans know-it-alls calling my Ford trans parts bad names J. If you don’t know how it works, you are flying blind, so pay attention.

SBF PATTERN MOTOR:
3.8/4.2/4.9/5.0/5.8

MOD PATTERN MOTOR:
4.6/5.4

AOD/FIOD/AOT - SBF PATTERN ONLY
Was used 1980-93 in many Ford products. This transmission was replaced by the AODE and shares a few common components. 1992 & 1993 were crossover years and could have either an AOD, AODE or 4R70W. This was an hydraulically controlled rear wheel drive overdrive transmission with TV system.


COOLER:
Bottom cooler line is the cooler return line. 1/4" PIPE


DIMMENSION:



SHORT- A:30 3/8 B:20 3/16 C:22 5/16 D:5 5/16 E:19 9/16
LONG- A:31 3/8



Gear Ratios:
2.40:1 1st gear
1.47:1 2nd gear
1.00:1 3rd gear
0.67:1 4th gear
2.00:1 reverse


Found In: (uncomplete list)
SHORT - Tbird, Cougar, Vic, Marquis, Fox Stang, Firmont
LONG - MarkVII, Towncar, Truck, Police vehicals

AODE/4R70W - SBF & MOD PATTERN ONLY
AODE was used 1992-95 and 4R70W was used 1993-up in many Ford products. This is a computer controlled rear wheel drive overdrive transmission. This transmission replaced the AOD and shares a few common components. 1992 & 1993 were crossover years and could have either an AOD, AODE or 4R70W. The 4R70W is basically a wide ratio version of the AODE. They are NOT interchangeable. Swapping them WILL cause a ratio code.


COOLER
Top cooler line is the cooler return line. 1/4" PIPE

DIMMENSION:



SHORT- A:31 3/16 B:21 C:23 5/16 D:5 5/16 E:19 3/8
LONG- A:32 3/16


AODE Found In:
SHORT - 92-93 - 4.6L Vic, 4.6L Marquis, 94/95 3.8/5.0 Stang,
LONG - 5.0/5.8 Truck, 4.6L 92-93 Town Car

4R70W Found In:
SHORT - 94+ 3.8L Tbird, Cougar, 96-04 4.6L/3.8L Stang, 94+ 4.6L Vic, Marquis, 98-2000 5.0L Explorer
LONG - 94+ 4.6L Towncar, 4.6/5.4/5.0/4.2 Truck

Gear Ratios (AODE):
2.40:1 1st gear
1.47:1 2nd gear
1.00:1 3rd gear
0.67:1 4th gear
2.00:1 reverse


Gear Ratios (4R70W):
2.84:1 1st gear
1.55:1 2nd gear
1.00:1 3rd gear
0.70:1 4th gear
2.32:1 reverse


AOD/E/4R EXPLODED DIAGRAM: Complete


AOD/E/4R EXPLODED DIAGRAM: Grouped
This is a diagram that I added 12 major groups. When you pull the trans apart…these parts remain TOGETHER. They are sub assemblies. Most people think all this shit will just fall out on the floor….FAR from the truth. When you go to pull the trans apart, these 12 major assemblies will come out as individual items. It is really quite simple.
1)Pump/pump gears/stator/INT piston/INT Spring retainer/selective pump washer
2)INT clutch pack/INT pressure plate
3)OD Band
4a)INT SPRAG/REV drum assembly
4b)REV drum to FWD drum bearing
5)FWD drum/internals/FWD drum to hub bearing/FWD clutch hub
6)Sungear to FWD hub bearing/SUNGEAR SHELL/Sungear to sungear shell bearing
7)SUNGEAR
8 )Center support attached to 10) Planet
9)REV Band
10)Planet
11a)Dir clutch hub, hub to drum bearing and race, DIR Drum (all inside 11c)
11b)Output shaft
11c)RING GEAR and OUTPUT HUB
12)Rear case bearing/case


AOD CLUTCH and BAND apply chart and specs:

[SilverFox]

GENERAL PICS:
Complete disassembled of STOCK AOD


This is a pic of the entire gear train complete with CAST drums.

[SilverFox]

AOD TV CABLE ADJUSTMENT:
http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm

I reccomend 1-5 PSI at the TV port at idle, or take out the slack for sure!

[SilverFox]

Cast vs Stamped Dir:
Stamped is Lighter with availability to be packed deeper with clutches.



Cast vs Stamped Dir Piston:
.54" cast piston is thicker than the stamped unit (Stamped unit is .52") This allows .02" of clearance...nothing major but does help get a final clearance required of .06-.07".



DIR Clutch Stack:
For 6 clutch stack use all .079" (96+ 4R70W) thick steels with a double stack for PP. SOme adjustment of final clearance can be found with using a .07" steel if needed.

Raybestose blues tend to be a tad thicker per, so clearance is tougher to find.



Output Hub:
Note that the AODE/4R70W hubs some were designed to use the double raced bearing under the DIR....this is cause ford decided not to continue machining the hardend face of the hub in the 4R70W for dirrect roller contact.
AOD............................................... ............LATE AOD/AODE.............................................. 4R to be added


Note that with increased width of the double raced bearing behind the DIR drum, Ford Thinned the HUB. In the 4R70W a recessed race (Dir washer) on top of the Dir stub was used to accomidate the DOUBLE raced case rear case bearing.

*PIC too be added*

[SilverFox]

Cast vs Stamped FWD:
The stamped unit is much lighter, stronger, and lets you pack more clutches.



Cast vs Stamped Pistons:
NOT interchangable



STAMPED STEEL PISTONS:

E9 and F2 .885" vs F6 .855" FORD part Numbers. The Later having MORE clearance for snapring and wave spring install. If assembeling a 6 clutch FWD either or will work with proper clearance with snaprings.



FWD Clutch Stack:

[SilverFox]

Rev Drums:

. . .
NOTE the highet difference, and unoticable but here is a diameter difference as well. This give you a dead recognition of the cast vs stamped drum. I am using the 4 PLATE pressure plate for Tbrake usage if wanted.

REV DRUM PISTONS:
Stamped and the Cast are different with the cast being THINNER cause the stamped drum is deeper. I installed a thin cast piston into a steel drum and the belville spring didn't even touch the piston - it does not give any more room for clutches unlike the other drums, due to the wave snapring placment and belville are not adjustable. Use of the cast piston would also probably result in cocking and seal failure.



Sun Shells:
Since the Stamped rev drum is smaller in diameter and longer in hight, the sun shel was revised to be shorter and narrow for the AODE. The 4R shell is identical accept it has a fineer 38 tooth gear that is roughly same diamter as the bushing surface where it meets the center support.
.
Note how thier highet and diamters are differnent...these pics also show you dead recognition of stamped vs cast shells.

[SilverFox]

4 Plate intermediate:
Using blues, and (3) .069" and (1) .079" to get my final clearance.

[SilverFox]

AOD VALVE BODY ID:

AOD:
On the bottom corner near the Park Pawl assembly there is a FORD PN casted. Anything that starts with RF-E?
Any Casting that is E0 (1980) is worthless. the E4 (1984) casting is okay, however needs upgraded to eliminate the 3-4 accum. The E9 (1989) casting is the best and comes in many varieties of sep plate.

To further diagnose if you wish there is a large circle cast into the bottom of the vb...in that circle is a star with a number stamped in it. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-0-1-2-3 like so. The 89 (9) 0-1-2-3 are the desired units to start with.

4R70W:
TBC

[SilverFox]

BUILD LEVELS:

A common question is “what parts do I need to make it withstand Xhp.”

Here is a recipe guide that showing what the industry thinks is okay in some instances, and what I think. This builds up from each unit. This is a guide to help your build decision, from here you can ask more detailed questions on the forum to get exactly what will work – this will however help you eliminate some things and question others.

AOD:

All build should not have anything less than B servo and shift mods.

325hp – this is the starting point that a stock 1986+ V8 unit should hold with B servo and shift mods. If built, I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, spiral ring, Tans or better, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft.

450hp – Most builders will add hard dir input shaft, A+ servo and Kevlar band – often some will install Alto reds clutches in the dir at least. I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, HE or better, spiral ring, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft, hard dir shaft, A/A+ servo, stator mods. Possible suggestions would be if doing a lot of heavy footwork Kevlar band and stamped dir drum. Adding a NON LOCK converter to this will bump it to the next level.

500-700hp – you will often find the industry slap a ONE PIECE input shaft in with some Alto packs (maybe a stamped drum or two) and call it BEEFY. I have had too many in my shop that say otherwise cause they are broke! I would not do any less than: 4 int, 4 rev, 5 or 6 fwd, 6/7/8 dir, Reds or better, spiral ring, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft, hard dir shaft, A/A+ servo, stator mods, 2” band, mech diode, stamped drum upgrades, lube mods. The top end of this hp bracket would want more lube mods, wide ratio planet, and upgraded output shaft.

AODE/4R70W:

All builds should consider swap to 4R70W against budget.

325hp AODE– this is the starting point that a stock 1992+ V8 unit should hold with 2.5” servo and shift mods. If built, I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, Tans or better, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, 98+ input shaft.

450hp 4R70W – this is a good starting point for any stock 98+ 4R70W. If built, I would not do any less than: 4 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, HE or better, 6 dir, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, 98+ input shaft, mech diode, pro series band.

500-700hp - you will often find the industry slap a HARD INPUT shaft in the middle and some performance clutches and call it BEEFY. I would not do any less than: 4 int, 4 rev, 5 or 6 fwd, 6/7/8 dir, Reds or better, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, hard input shaft - staked, mech diode, pro series band, lube mods.

[SilverFox]

GOVERNOR Description:
http://www.clickclickracing.com/foru...ead.php?t=4442

GOVERNOR Dissasembly:
Located on the tailshaft in the EXT housing.

TOOLS:
Complete socket set and wrench set (SAE and metric) w/extensions, 12 point 12mm wrench, #3 Phillips screwdriver, mallet, carb cleaner, gasket scrapper, oil catch pan, floor jack, jack stands.

INSTALLATION:

Installation requires the removal of the transmission extension housing that contains the output shaft and the governor assembly. This procedure is simple, but does require additional effort.

First task is to block the front tires and secure car on jack stands so that the rear of the vehicle is as high as you can comfortably get it. Remove the driveshaft from the axle pinion with 12mm 12 point wrench. A mallet might be needed to beat the shaft loose from the pinion. Pull shaft and yoke out of transmission. Have a catch pan ready, only slight fluid lose is associated with this procedure – usually just drips.

It is often necessary to remove the tailpipes from the H / X / Midpipe for the next step and let them hang freely. Support the transmission pan with the jack (block might be needed) and remove the cross member assembly that supports the transmission. This assembly comes in many configurations. The end result is you need access to the bolts holding the extension housing to the transmission case.

Remove the speed sensor and wires, and loosen the six ½” bolts securing the housing. It is only necessary to shift the housing 5 to 6 inches, however I recommend you completely remove the housing from the vehicle. A mallet might be needed to break the housing loose from its gasket. 90% of the time this gasket is not harmed. Should it break or tear, simple gasket sealer will suffice or reassembly.

You will see the governor assembly hanging from the output shaft. (fig 1) Rotate the output shaft (neutral) so that the aluminum housing is pointed towards you. Remove the 2 large Phillips screws and take the assembly to the bench careful not to dump the valve assembly.

Remove plug, governor regulator sleeve, governor filter/screen, and governor valve. (fig 2) Remove the plate on the top section of the assembly (7mm bolts). Thoroughly clean the body and components. Remove the E-clip from the old governor valve and use it to secure the new RED spring to the new valve. Replace the governor valve with the supplied valve. BE SURE THE VALVE MOVES FREELY. This valve must move freely and rattle up and down in its bore as you shake the assembly. If the valve sticks, find it’s sticky spot and bump the assembly on the table to help beat the casting impurities into the porous aluminum.

Reassemble in reverse order using new gasket provided. When reinstalling the governor assembly to the counterweight you MUST make sure the plate and 7mm bolts are facing the trans, or that the part number on the aluminum casting is point to the rear.