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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    31

    AOD 1-2-3/4 Shift Pattern (EPOXY Mod)

    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l47/silverfoxbody/SILVERFOX%20TRANSMISSION/EPOXY%20MOD/

    PICS IN POST 47

    http://www.clickclickracing.com/forums/showpost.php?p=32594&postcount=47

    OR HERE
    http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...N/EPOXY%20MOD/




    ....... and it works great. It was very simple to do, no more "AOD shuffle", and as long as you are accelerating it won't shift into OD.

    Anyone thinking about doing this, don't hesitiate to try it.

    All it takes is an 1/8" drill bit and some JB-Weld.

    EDITED BY SILVERFOX:
    Drill here as mentioned several way in this thread.

    FILL here, as mentioned, don't blockthe drilled holes with epoxy, make sure the epoxy sets up and contact as much surface area of the CLEAn vb as you can. This pic shows the oil coatd valve in place so the epoxy will not run out.


    This pic shows how to line up the 3/32" drill for at least one of the holes...come right down the VB channel and drill it in...i usually drill 3.
    Last edited by SilverFox; 12-28-2009 at 11:12 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,322
    Quote Originally Posted by qwiktim
    ....... and it works great. It was very simple to do, no more "AOD shuffle", and as long as you are accelerating it won't shift into OD.

    Anyone thinking about doing this, don't hesitiate to try it.

    All it takes is an 1/8" drill bit and some JB-Weld.
    Tim,

    Any possibility of a tech article on the mod?


    Thanks

    matt
    Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you:
    1. Jesus Christ
    2. The American G. I.
    One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    31
    Sure..................... give me a few minutes...........

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,322
    Quote Originally Posted by qwiktim
    Sure..................... give me a few minutes...........
    thanks! we will make it a sticky for you
    Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you:
    1. Jesus Christ
    2. The American G. I.
    One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    31
    After getting tired of doing the "AOD Shuffle" and not wanting to spend the cash on a new valve body, I decided to possibly sacrifice my own valve body to see if the "epoxy shift pattern" mod was easy enough to complete, and see if it actualy worked. To my surprise, it turned out to be very simple and work very well. The shift pattern no longer has second and third on the same position on the shifter, now first and second have their own position, and third gear does not engage until you click it into OD. As long as you are accelerating, overdrive does not kick in, when you back off the gas you have OD. Unless you have purposely modified your valve body to allow for WOT OD engagement, you do not have to worry about OD kicking in at WOT. This entire mod is based from the November 1996 issue of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords where Lentech showed how to do this mod.



    This is the AOD valve body removed, and on the work bench.



    After removing the seperator plate, you have access to the manual shift valve passage. You'll need to remove one e-clip from the valve itself to let it slide out of the right side of the valve body as pictured. Set it aside, and make sure to remove the checkballs and remember where they go so you don't lose them. (This picture already shows the three holes drilled in the next step)



    Use a hand drill with a 1/8" drill bit to drill three equally spaced holes 1/4" from the end of the valve body edge, which turns out to be centered on the rib that you see above. Deburr them, and clean with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air to make sure it's clean.



    The small screwdriver in the above picture shows the passage that you will be filling with JB-Weld. After cleaning the passage with brake cleaner and drying it with compressed air, oil your manual shift valve and slide it back in. The large machined area pointed to with the arrow is going to be slid into the valve body to the point where it is centered in the passage where you will be filling, and the oil on it keps the JB-weld from sticking to it.



    Another view of the only part to be filled in.



    After tilting the valve body on end to keep the epoxy where you want it, use Vice-Grips to hold the manual shift valve so that the large machined portion is right in the passage you are filling as stated above. Next take a piece of flat metal, coat it with oil, and use Vise-Grips to hold it on the valve body to hold your epoxy. Fill in the entire passage with JB-Weld right up to the edge of the holes you drilled, making sure to spin the manual shift valve every so often until the JB-Weld dries so that it doesn't stick to the valve.

    After you are sure the JB-Weld has dried, go ahead and remove the Vise-Grips and remove your metal plate. Put the valve body all back together the same way it came apart. No modifications to anything else are needed for a shift pattern change.

    So basically, drill 3 holes, use a little JB-Weld, and eliminate the problems with holding second gear all together. The shift pattern is just like a C4, but when you back off the gas while in 3/4, it will shift into OD.

    Last edited by qwiktim; 10-02-2006 at 09:39 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    KCMO
    Posts
    9,126
    I notice their are censored info in the pic above. That is dumb!

    The lower censored is the cutback elemintaion plug...the first step of any shift kit.

    the other mod above is unknown to me....and frankly of the Lenny VB's I have disasembled, i have not seen any mod here....so it must be related to the Reverse mod.

    Tim....if you want to hold 4th off you can do one or even a combo of a few things.

    modify the TV limit valve with a spacer - this will raise all the shift points. This will raise the TV pressure needed before OD kicks. However the downfall is TUNNING THE OD shift will raise the 1-2 and 2-3 pretty high, and might be unliked

    Lighten the GOV, I hope to bring a tech artical on this in the future. And have a chart of WIEGHTs that equal shift points. Once again, it will raise ALL the shift points. HOWEVER, it would spread the love equally. This would only work for AOD gears though...the 4R gears are basicaly worthless when it comes to GOV control.

    Also on the experimental side...stretch or space the 3/4 shift spring or 3/4 modulator valve spring. I have not gotten to this test yet. I can provide more data if you wish. This mod would effect the 3-4 shift only and not mess with anything else.

    On this subject. I hope to have the 12v solinoid OD lockout VB completed in the next few weeks......I am looking for testers. Pm me if intrested.

    *PICS FOR REPRESENTATION PURPOSE ONLY

    REMOVE MANUAL VALVE & DRILL 3 holes HERE: I preffer to use 3/32 drill and get 3 holes - one at the base of the vb drilling in from the worm trail, one at the top (where bit is shown in pic), and one in the middle of these two holes. NOTE* That there are two different VB castings that I have seen in this area of the VB, some are completely smooth and round, some have the triangle like shown. The VB's were cast at more than one MFG.



    CLEAN VB and PASSAGE in this area WELL with a chemical solvant that leaves no residue. Apply a THIN layer of oil to the manual valve and replace. Fix the valve in place with vice grip so the large bulge of the valve is DIRRECTLY under the casted opening just south of the holes you drilled. Fill this area with JB WELD. lightly spin the manual a few time durring the fill proccess to ensure it is not adhearing to it. Apply enough JB WELD that it is close to possibly covering the holes you drilled.

    Next place a pice of sheet metal or plastic/lexan just even with the upper most worm trail. Clamp it in place with a c-clamp or in this case large vice clamps. Be sure this cover has a thin layer of oil on it as well to prevent adhesion of the JB WELD.

    Now place the assembly in a vice with a rag or soft material to protect the VB surface (DO NOT damage the VB surface - the VB in this pic is junk so I didn't take this precaution)



    Remember to spin the manual valve every so often, Let the JB WELD harden over a few hours (overnight).

    End result: *Note this VB was drilled with 3/32 bit and only 2 holes are able to flow, it works just as inteneded with only these 2 holes as well. I have seen LENTECH VB's that work with only ONE hole.

    Last edited by SilverFox; 07-06-2007 at 01:22 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    31
    I censored the other info myself to keep from confusing viewers with unecessary information. It had to do with the basic shift kit install that Lentech did in that article for shift points and firmness, as well as cutback bypass.

    This mod was very simple, and only effects shift pattern, not shift points, pressures, or anything else............ just shift pattern.

    I also did a Baumann kit and have had the valve body in and out 3 times now changing shift points with spacers on the TV limit valve. I ended up putting it back to stock after doing the shift pattern change so it would shift at the stock 4600 on it's own, and anything I want above that now can easily be manually shifted without doing the "shuffle".......

    One note on the spacers on the TV limit valve, my car shifted stock at 4600 into second and 4600 into third......... after shimming the valve to get it to shift at 5300, it went to 5300 into second, it only went to 4800 before shifting into third. This is why I decided to try the shift pattern change, so I could take the spacers out and manually shift it where I wanted it.

    It really does work well, and I put about 300 miles on it since the shift pattern mod and the stock TV limit valve settings were done and I wouldn't want it any other way. In the Baumann kit, I did do the 3/4 cutback bypass, and shimmed the 1-2 shift valve as well as drilling the holes in the seperator plate to the maximum and removing the checkball for the 2-3 shift. Since I have a non-lockup 4000 stall PI converter the shifts really needed tightened up.

    I've had Lentech, Art Carr, and PA valve bodies for the AOD over the years, and I like my homemade vb as well as any of the others.
    Last edited by qwiktim; 10-02-2006 at 11:49 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    207
    Does this turn it into a manual V/B? I like the idea but still looking for a put in drive and go upgrade. I've got a spare trans and I'm looking into doing this to it. Thanks for the info. How is the car running now?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    31
    No, it does not effect it in any other way other than changing the "D" position from 2/3 gears to 2 only, and the "OD" click on the shifter is now 3/4 gears......... 700 miles since this particular mod and working perfectly. This is a completely stock no option AOD coupe with vinyl interior and radio delete, with only a PI converter, valve body mods, and 3.55 gears........ stock headers, h-pipe, air box, and all....... I don't plan on doing too much to it.

    14.30 @ 93.98 ............. "Ol Skewl" style .................. lol............





    Last edited by qwiktim; 10-08-2006 at 09:46 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bowling Green, KY
    Posts
    207
    Thanks Tim. I'm going to try your valve body mod. Maybe I'll tell people I have a QuickTim V/B.

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