View Full Version : Help with ARP head bolts/beehive valve springs...
Quick88Tbird
04-24-2005, 10:28 PM
I'm pretty sure the GT-40P will use the same head bolts as the E7TE heads but just want to confirm before I order ARP's. Also...I plan on installing the beehive valve springs on the heads as well(comp cams, I believe). I haven't seen the beehive springs in jegs or summit yet...but I know they're available(where?). I also am curious as to whether or not the GT-40P heads will take the same springs as the E7's.
Any recommendations on what I should torque the ARP's to? I've heard of a few different numbers....82 on the short ones and 87 on the long ones...100lb-ft on all of them. I don't want to overtorque them either...I'm using a standard Fel-Pro head gasket set, part no.-HS9280 PT-3.
Thanks in advance,
Don
87vert
04-25-2005, 10:22 PM
I used the stock replacement ARP head bolts on my GT40's. I torqued them all to 85 as per ARP's instructions using 30W oil on all the bolts.
Quick88Tbird
04-28-2005, 06:32 PM
Do you remember what part number you got...it seems like every place lists them differently. Thanks for the torque specs...I'm trying to get as much info as quick as possible...may be ordering this weekend.
87vert
04-28-2005, 10:30 PM
ARP-154-3601
they were the hex head. You can also order the 12 point head'd ones if you wanted. They recommend using there thread sealant, but I really dont see a problem using regular oil.
Some GT40 heads are drilled for 1/2 bolts and they recommend using the stepped bolts or washers that basicly fill in the hole. Mine were drilled for 1/2 but I just used the 7/16 bolts. They were installed on my friends car the same way. And he used to run a 150 shot then went to an A trim and then to an Strim and made 500hp before we finally took it apart to build his new motor. All with the same headgaskets, like 20k miles. And no problems. Alot of other people had the same experience. I think the dowels pretty much keep the head from moving. So I doubt the need for the washers. (Edelbrock sells em for like 50bux)
Some people believe that the intake can lift the heads so they recommend adding a bit more torque on the top head bolts. We did the top bolts to 90 and the rest to 85 but I dont think it really matters.
Quick88Tbird
04-29-2005, 06:21 PM
Thanks again for the help/advice John...I'll probably be ordering a set come monday. I plan on checking Comp Cams' website and see what info I can get on the Beehive valvesprings.
-Don
87vert
04-30-2005, 12:53 AM
Not a problem man, Im going to dyno tuesday. Im hoping for 250+ :)
Quick88Tbird
05-01-2005, 05:09 PM
Hope you reach your goal...
I think I may be putting on my GT-40's sooner than I anticipated...I put a new rack in my car today because my old one was leaking like hell. Well, after I was done and road tested it, a neighbor was revving the hell out of his little honda so I let him hear what my car sounds like at 6 grand....a little puff of white smoke came out from under my hood after I shut it down and it puked out about half a quart of coolant.....I couldn't see where it was coming from though.
I popped open the radiator while it was still hot, using great caution and the system didn't even have any pressure in it(was at normal operating temp) and the coolant was right up to the filler neck and didn't even feel hot...I would say it felt warm at best.
It's cooling down now, in a little while I'm going to check to see if the oil is contaminated. Good Times!
-Don
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