Tubular K-member worth it for street car?

[KIXASS]

How much of a pain in the ass is it to install one in a 14x20 garage with NO lift? Is it worth it if the car is mainly a street car? I just like the way they make it look under the hood plus giving more room.

I'm looking at one with tubular A-arms. I just don't know if it worth the the work. How long does it usually take to remove the stock one *(engine already out) with basic air tools and mechanically inclined? Is it a 2 or more person job or is it more intimidating than anything?

[88BlueGT]

If you already have the motor out of the car its not that hard... a few bolts and the k member will drop! I am doing mine in a garage about the same size, with no lift, with my engine still in the car! This is the setup I decided to go with:

D&D K Member
D&D A Arms
D&D Front Coil Over Kit
Strange 10 Way Adj. Struts
Maximum Motorsports C/C Plates

And while Im doing that I decided to go with a nice oil pan and supporting stuff (Moroso 7qt Oil Pan, Moroso Pick Up, Moroso Dip Stick, Miloden HV/HP Oil Pump, ARP oil Pump Driveshaft, ARP Oil Pan Studs, etc.) Its going to be a long, horrible nightmare! But when its done hopefully it will be worth it! I should be doing this within the next few weeks (waiting on some parts from D&D), but I will let you know how it goes if you want. Thanks!

Dan

[dizntz]

if you can afford it, do it.

if the motor is out already, it should take you no more than 30 minutes to have the entire front suspension and steering laying on the floor.

swapping steering parts and reinstallation of the new tubular components shouldnt take you much longer hour to hour and a half tops... unless youre me and are anal about cleaning all the dirt off of everything first. in which case you may spend an entire weekend.

where you need to spend some extra time is making sure that everything is squared to the chassis and rear as close as humanly possible and setting your coil overs for even ride heights.

not a huge deal, and the laying on a cold concrete floor puts a damper on some of the fun, but if you have 4 tall truck jack stands, its actuall not that bad.

joe

[Stephen]

on a street driven car, no its not worth it. If you plan on racing, either drag or auto Xing, yeah I would

btw, its not that hard to do it with the engine in the car.

Griggs or MM better for a cornering
UPR, QA1, etc, better for drag racing

[frdfandc]

If you are going to install one, make sure you get the chromoly. Its more forgiving than the mild steel.

Personally I would either get UPR or PA Racing.

[FLBoostAddict]

Swapped to my current Grigg's GR-40 front system in the garage with the engine out and the car on jackstands. The wife even helped me square it to the cassis :-o

Not necessary for a street car, but I sure enjoy the additional clearance when working underneath the front of the car, plus I wanted to offset some of the weight over the nose from adding the turbo kit.

-Roger

[Newt-Rod]

I would do it. Plus like some said before its not an issue if the car has motor in it. Just use your engine hoist to hold motor. Then unbolt and replace. Not only do you get weight savings, you get better weight transfer, Plus it just look better.