aod converter

[workinprogress]

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me if the converter in my car is bad or is it the valvebody. the car will not roast the tires from a dead stand still romp on the gas and the car will not accelerate out of the hole at the track and my best 60' is consistant 2.3, but after that the car runs strong all the through the 1/4 the car still has the stock gears, and i have added mac headers, cobra upper and lower intake, cold air induction, 75mm pro m meter, and 65mm throttlebody :?:

[RdRunnr]

Is this with a stock tranny and converter?

[workinprogress]

Is this with a stock tranny and converter?

this is with a rebuilt aod with a mild shift kit from what the guy i bought the car from says and a stock converter

[rel3rd]

the car will not roast the tires from a dead stand still romp on the gas and the car will not accelerate out of the hole at the track and my best 60' is consistant 2.3, but after that the car runs strong all the through the 1/4 the car still has the stock gears, and i have added mac headers, cobra upper and lower intake, cold air induction, 75mm pro m meter, and 65mm throttlebody :?:

The answer lies in the bold statement above...
"Stock" rear gears are usually 273 or 308...and a possible "AOD car only option" of 327's...None of which is going to let you "roast the tires" with the mods that you presently have...The stock rear gears combined with the stock 1400rpm or so stock stall speed your converter has...there simply isn't enough torque multiplication to get the car rolling.

Make your next additions a set of 410 gears (or at least 373's), and a mild 2400-2800 stall converter, and the car will feel like you added 75 horsepower...Your 60 foot times will easily be in the 1.xx's somewhere...Assuming you also have traction. With the lower gears, and a higher stall speed rated converter, stock tires will be no match...even with the fairly mild mods you have...

Hope this helps. :wink:

[87vert]

I remeber those 2.3 60' foots lol. Gears dropped my 60' foots from 2.3 to 2.2 though now Im spinning a little so it should be like 2.1 maybe 2.0? Im saving up for a new converter and I'll let you know ;) oh yea I also got 8 tenths off my 1/4 mile for gears and a shift kit. Not bad eh?

[87vert]

If you dont mind me asking what kinda 1/4 mile times does it put down? And have you dyno'd it? just trying to see some comparisions vs mine.

[rel3rd]

FWIW, a properly matched converter will get you the most ET drop for the money...

On my old car, with a 2800 stall converter, I 60 footed 1.80's.
With a 3800 stall, I 60 footed 1.50's...

This made the car go from 11.60's at 120mph, to 11.1's @ the same 120mph...

In my latest car, the aod'd convertible, I just went from a stock converter, to a mild 2400 stall speed, and the car is like night and day difference...No comparison...This is a Kenne Bell blown car, but the same rules apply...

[workinprogress]

thanks alot for all of the help and the much needed knowledge i just ordered a 2200-2600 stall yesterday it shoud be here thursday but i need a little more info on the bauman shift kit and how much it cost you guys who are using it and what you benefited from just that addition before and after 1/4 mile times and trap speed

[87vert]

I paid 60bucks from a ford dealer, most carry it or you can order it from there website for the same price. I paid a ford technician to install it along with my gears which was 60 for the shift kit and 150 for the gears. I dont have an 1/4 times because I added the kit and the gears at the same time. That combination dropped my et about 8-9 tenths. How do you currently run the car do you leave it in D and just run it or do you do the AOD shuffle? If you do the shuffle it wont help much besides the quicker shifts but if you leave it in D (like you should) it will allow you to raise your shift points and you also get 3 settings of shiftfirmness most people reccomend the 2nd level as it is hard shifting but not to hard. I can bark 2nd now with the shift kit ;)

[87vert]

heres the link to there site

http://www.baumannengineering.com/aodcat.htm

its the valve body recal kit.

[rel3rd]

That's the kit I intended to get before I broke my stock AOD... :oops:

The replacement tranny already has a very nice setup, so I'm leaving it be.

For a nice low budget, quality setup, I wouldn't hesitate to get the Baumann kit...I've never read or heard anything bad about them or their products...

[workinprogress]

i just installed the converter, but the car does not foot brake stall to more than 1800 before the tires begin to spin is this normal because i bought a 2400-2800rpm stall and also the car accelerates alot faster but still has that lag before it gets going i hope i am not asking to many questions just dont know anything about stalls :idea:

[rel3rd]

What rpm the car will rise to when holding the brake, doesn't really mean diddly...

My old ride would "footbrake stall" to 3200, but would "flash" to 4200 during a launch...

You're on the right track with a new converter...

Next on your list should be gears...that's the remaining bottleneck...

Then you'll need a sticky tire...guaranteed. :D

[87vert]

foot brake is gonna be like 400-800 less than actual stall.

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/WhatisStall.htm

[rel3rd]

There's no set rule of thumb...

Think about it. There are way too many variables...

A stock-ish car that makes 200rwhp may "stall" to 1800 with whatever converter he just installed. But I can guarantee that you take that exact same converter, and put it in a 500rwhp car and the stall will be dramatically different...This I know for a fact. The converter I had (described above) in my low 10 second car "flashed" to 4200 rpm's, like I said above. THe same exact setup, in my 257rwhp 94 GT "flashed" to 2500.

So...which stall speed is right?

Did I have a 2500 stall, or did I have a 4200 stall??

See what I mean?

Take the exact same converter and put it in two completely different setups, and the stall speeds will vary widely...There's no possible way to tell how much higher of a stall speed you actually have by any formula or guesstimations...

The only true way to get an accurate "stall speed" for your specific combination is with a trans-brake.
Hopefully, this cleared things up a bit...

[workinprogress]

well the stall seems to have helped me some and the info you guys are telling me is very helpful and just about correct with the stall number but just need to get this correct if i install a set of 4.10's will that help me get a tad more stall than 2000 and if the car is low on tranny fluid will that affect stall speed and the detane cable or however it is spelled being slightly out of wack affect anything else but the shift points :D

[rel3rd]

IT is very important to have the fluid level correct...Check it with engine/transmission fully warmed up, car running, and in PARK.

Do Not Overfill.

The TV cable adjustment is also VERY, VERY important...

Here's a link that explains very thoroughly how to do it. Yours should be the second application midway down the page...(FWIW, this procedure is what I have always used without any issues whatsoever)

http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm

You'll need a helper to floor the gas pedal while you get your cable initially adjusted. This is done with the ENGINE OFF.

410's will be like NIGHT and DAY....

[87vert]

410's will be like NIGHT and DAY....

They are.