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View Full Version : oil pan, pump, pickup, etc.. windage tray.



Mill Creek Mafia
06-19-2006, 10:46 PM
basically i'm looking at the moroso one on summit MOR-20511, i was going to get the matching windage tray and then i was unsure what oil pump to get, not sure what's really got at this point. I've read that your supposed to tear them apart and clean the rough edges up on them? anyone do this or know what i'm talking about? can someone give me some guidance on what i need to get here? it's for my supercharged 306 i'm building.

Black90gt
06-20-2006, 02:32 AM
Billy what are you talking about with the oil pump when tearing it apat is called blueprinting the pump....Theres a couple groves you put in the sides of the pump and on top and bottom (inside with the rotors removed) to help prevent cavitation and have better flow...I'm not sure how or where to put these grooves I saw the basics of it one time in an old hot rod tricks and of trade type book...As for what type of pump just go with a stock replacement.. you want 10 psi per 1000 rpms as a general rule...and you aren't going to twist your motor harder than about 6250 unless you have the extender...or pms so a stock pump should have more than enough...I installed a high volume pump in my 302 (oh the joys of being ignorent, i thought more was better...lol) when i drop it in and it gave me all kinds of problems.....I had to change to a steel dist. gear instead of iron as the motor chewed the iron gear off in about ten minutes.....it sucked...lol

Mill Creek Mafia
06-20-2006, 09:07 AM
well i do have a pms, but i'm not sure what kind of rpm i'm going to be turning. so what are you saying, i should just keep my stock pan and buy a replacement oil pump?

Black90gt
06-20-2006, 09:34 AM
well i do have a pms, I thought you did but i wasn't sure.....But the bigger pan is worth it...as is the windage tray...You'll get 10 to 15 horsepower with the windage tray...just go with a stock replacement pump.....

Mill Creek Mafia
06-20-2006, 10:45 AM
so my next question is that are there any special things i need to do since i'm running a main support? dss.

2MUCHBOOST
06-20-2006, 11:35 AM
Im running the same pan, with a girdle, with a Melling pump M68. It was like $25 from Pep Boys. I have 70 at idle ice cold and have 55-60 in gear when the motor is hot. At WOT its at like 80.

Mill Creek Mafia
06-24-2006, 01:18 PM
as for answering this thread i made, i ended up going with:

MEL-IS-68
Oil Pump Driveshaft, Steel Sleeve, Ford, Small Block Windsor, Each $7.69

MEL-M68
Oil Pump, Standard Volume, Ford, Small Block, Each $21.95

MOR-20511
Oil Pan, Steel, Black, 7 qt., Ford/Mercury 1979-95, 5.0L, Each $199.88

MOR-24519
PICK-UP TUBE $56.95

I have them all installed, and fitment was almost perfect. the pan was a little uneven since it was welded and all, but when tightened down it all seated good. If anyone is running a vortech blower, the oil return fitting welded on that pan is on the drivers side and to the rear, so i welded another fitting in place where vortech says to have it because it would be retarded to run an oil return line all the way around your motor to the other side. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Keep in mind what i ordered up there, that pickup tube is to be used with a Main Support I believe, so i'd call moroso and double check with them before ordering anything first, they will tell you exactly what you need.

fast88
06-25-2006, 08:58 AM
...I installed a high volume pump in my 302 (oh the joys of being ignorent, i thought more was better...lol) when i drop it in and it gave me all kinds of problems.....I had to change to a steel dist. gear instead of iron as the motor chewed the iron gear off in about ten minutes.....it sucked...lol

What kinds of problems did you run in to??....Sounds to me that your CAM ate the distibuter gear...not the oil pump.

RdRunnr
06-25-2006, 09:26 AM
That driveshaft is going to snap like a toothpick.

DynoJoe
06-25-2006, 09:29 AM
Seen that happen before.

Mill Creek Mafia
06-25-2006, 11:34 AM
the one i got? if so why?

fast88
06-25-2006, 11:55 AM
yeah.....I wanna hear how a FACTORY REPLACEMENT oil pump is gonna break a FACTORY REPLACEMENT shaft.

5.0s run forever with the factory setup.....why is this one any differant?....unless im missing something.:confused:

Black90gt
06-25-2006, 11:55 AM
What kinds of problems did you run in to??....Sounds to me that your CAM ate the distibuter gear...not the oil pump.


Rich it was a combination of bad fitment of the timing chain gear to the cam (which allowed the cam to walk) and the high volume pump.....i called ford motorsport and they told me you have to run a steel gear with a high volume oil pump......I put a steel geared dist. in and haven't had a problem since.....been 8 months or better now......but that motor is coming out this winter right Joe?????:p ......as is the trans...Matt has got me talked into an AOD...will be ordering my input shaft and V/B after the 1st....

fast88
06-25-2006, 11:58 AM
Rich is what a combination of bad fitment of the cam gear to the cam and the high volume pump.....i called ford motorsport and they told you have to run a steel gear with a high volume oil pump......I put a steel geared dist. in and haven't had a problem since.....been 8 months or better now......but that motor is coming out this winter right Joe?????:p ......as is the trans...Matt has got me talked into an AOD...will be ordering my input shaft and V/B after the 1st....

You have to run a STEEL or BRONZE gear with a ROLLER CAM......Ive ran my flat tappet motor for YEARS with a regular iron gear cause thats what the cam calls for....and yes...i had a high volume pump. The fact that you timing chain was put on incorrect just compounded the problem....you still woulda had a fubar dist gear if the timing chain problem wasnt there.

You run an iron gear on a roller cam it will eat the gear in a matter or minutes.

Mill Creek Mafia
06-25-2006, 12:04 PM
how did your timing chain go on wrong??