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View Full Version : How's this AOD setup sound?



Blown284
06-30-2005, 09:55 AM
Keep in mind that I'm going from stock AODE with 3200 lockup converter to:

Art Carr
Brand New, 0 miles
upgraded heavy duty input shaft and clutches
full man. valvle body with trans brake
3800 RPM non-lockup stall with anit bal. plates
SFI approved bell housing and SFI approved 8 bolt flexplate
Cheetah shifter

Also swapping out the stock trans lines for some braided line.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

2MUCHBOOST
06-30-2005, 10:54 AM
Thats a BIG comvertor what all is done to the car that it needs that big of a stall??

Blown284
06-30-2005, 11:00 AM
Thats a BIG comvertor what all is done to the car that it needs that big of a stall??

Blower, built engine, etc. On the dyno with the old trans/converter and approx 12 psi of boost , it's pushing around (+/-) 500rwhp but we all know you can't race the dyno :-)

2MUCHBOOST
06-30-2005, 12:16 PM
Your old convertor to tight??? What was the 60s on the car before. I know "most" blower cars like tight convertors.

Blown284
06-30-2005, 12:18 PM
Your old convertor to tight??? What was the 60s on the car before. I know "most" blower cars like tight convertors.

Yes too tight and not to mention the old stock transmission could not handle the power.

2MUCHBOOST
06-30-2005, 12:22 PM
All I can say is take it to the track and see what happens. And yes Dyno racing, if that was the case my car should run 12.80s...lol
But does sound like a pretty good trans.

RdRunnr
06-30-2005, 12:27 PM
Sounds like a good combo to me! That's the same kind of stall I have always been running and it works great on a 5.0 motor...I think yours should like it too...

Blown284
06-30-2005, 12:32 PM
Sounds like a good combo to me! That's the same kind of stall I have always been running and it works great on a 5.0 motor...I think yours should like it too...

Eric,
thanks. The trans is actually one of the older ones before the Art Carr switch? The guy I bought it from was building a race car and aborted the project and it has zero miles. I confirmed with Art Carr that the trans I believe is a 2002 model along with the converter. The only thing that I don't quite understand is the lockup converter vs. non-lockup. I've always run a lockup but I hear that the non-lockup is more drag strip friendly. I believe you run a non-lockup right? Have you ever run a lockup? Differences between the two?

Tim

rel3rd
06-30-2005, 09:19 PM
Hey Tim...pay attention cuz I ain't typing it again...lol.

NON-LOCKUP converter means transmission NEVER "locks up" with engine, which means the converter is always slipping, at any speed, rpm, throttle position...This also means more heat so make sure you have the biggest "stacked plate type" cooler you can fit...if you took my advice a few years ago about the Hayden version, you're good to go on that. The non lockup converter is "usually" the better choice for a street/strip car, but obviously since it never "locks" your cruise mileage will suffer...

LOCKUP converter on an AOD means that depending on what aftermarket valve body you have, the converter is "locked up" in either OVERDRIVE only, or like a stock AOD, which means lockup in DRIVE and OVERDRIVE. The latter type is/was the main cause of higher powered cars breaking their input shafts. Stock aod has a two piece input shaft (inner and outer). Outer (stronger) shaft is for Reverse, 1st and 2nd gears...smaller (weaker) inner input shaft is for Drive and Overdrive.

Look at it this way...you take a car that's making some power...add a shift kit and a higher stall "lockup" converter. The converter is doing it's job and slipping (as 100% of the torque converters do) to multiply torque in 1st and 2nd gears, but when it shifts into 3rd (drive), the converter is also "locking up" at that exact moment and depending on the small, weak inner input shaft to absorb the horsepower and torque of your engine...It usually doesn't take too long to find the weak link, which is the inner input shaft. You make 500rwhp, and shift into DRIVE @ WOT and BANG!!!, there goes the inner input shaft, which means you lose DRIVE and OVERDRIVE gears in the transmission since there's no longer any "connection".

Lentech and others found that by using a one piece input shaft and not allowing the converter to "lock-up", the transmission was alot less likely to have a failure.

FWIW, there was a freak AOD valve body formerly sold by LenTech which was known as the Street Terminator Lock-Up, which re-directed tranny fluid and only used the inner shaft for OVERDRIVE only. For ALL other forward gears and reverse, it used the much stronger and damn near indestructible outer shaft. This is the valve body that I had on the old BARNEYcar, and it made my otherwise STOCK AOD easily handle 500+rwhp in a 3500#+ car...you rode in it, so you know it shifted hard and made the power...lol. :lol:

FWIW#2, LenTech now markets that valve body in a complete transmission only, and it is now known as the STRIP Terminator Lock-Up...

SO...did you get the aod yet, or are we still just talking about it? :wink:

rel3rd
06-30-2005, 09:23 PM
Your old convertor to tight??? What was the 60s on the car before. I know "most" blower cars like tight convertors.

FWIW Ray, my old YS trim supercharged 86 had a 2800 stall LenTech Lockup converter which got me only 1.80 60 foots at best. A swap to a PI Stallion 3800 lock-up got me very low 1.50's... :shock:

Car was a very simple, but well tuned example that weighed 3540 with me in it.
Edelbrock 6037 heads
TFS intake and cam
MAC/Flowmaster exhaust
355 gears
28x11.5 ET Streets
PMS tuning by Spence Hart
etc...

2MUCHBOOST
06-30-2005, 10:31 PM
:whip: Aint the 1st time I was wrong....lol

Not necassarily wrong Ray...Just gave you my example... :wink:

FWIW, the Vert's 2400 stall worked fine with both the KB and the Vortech blowers, but was absolutely horrible with nothing but motor...

Blown284
07-02-2005, 08:13 PM
Hey Tim...pay attention cuz I ain't typing it again...lol.

NON-LOCKUP converter means transmission NEVER "locks up" with engine, which means the converter is always slipping, at any speed, rpm, throttle position...This also means more heat so make sure you have the biggest "stacked plate type" cooler you can fit...if you took my advice a few years ago about the Hayden version, you're good to go on that. The non lockup converter is "usually" the better choice for a street/strip car, but obviously since it never "locks" your cruise mileage will suffer...

LOCKUP converter on an AOD means that depending on what aftermarket valve body you have, the converter is "locked up" in either OVERDRIVE only, or like a stock AOD, which means lockup in DRIVE and OVERDRIVE. The latter type is/was the main cause of higher powered cars breaking their input shafts. Stock aod has a two piece input shaft (inner and outer). Outer (stronger) shaft is for Reverse, 1st and 2nd gears...smaller (weaker) inner input shaft is for Drive and Overdrive.

Look at it this way...you take a car that's making some power...add a shift kit and a higher stall "lockup" converter. The converter is doing it's job and slipping (as 100% of the torque converters do) to multiply torque in 1st and 2nd gears, but when it shifts into 3rd (drive), the converter is also "locking up" at that exact moment and depending on the small, weak inner input shaft to absorb the horsepower and torque of your engine...It usually doesn't take too long to find the weak link, which is the inner input shaft. You make 500rwhp, and shift into DRIVE @ WOT and BANG!!!, there goes the inner input shaft, which means you lose DRIVE and OVERDRIVE gears in the transmission since there's no longer any "connection".

Lentech and others found that by using a one piece input shaft and not allowing the converter to "lock-up", the transmission was alot less likely to have a failure.

FWIW, there was a freak AOD valve body formerly sold by LenTech which was known as the Street Terminator Lock-Up, which re-directed tranny fluid and only used the inner shaft for OVERDRIVE only. For ALL other forward gears and reverse, it used the much stronger and damn near indestructible outer shaft. This is the valve body that I had on the old BARNEYcar, and it made my otherwise STOCK AOD easily handle 500+rwhp in a 3500#+ car...you rode in it, so you know it shifted hard and made the power...lol. :lol:

FWIW#2, LenTech now markets that valve body in a complete transmission only, and it is now known as the STRIP Terminator Lock-Up...

SO...did you get the aod yet, or are we still just talking about it? :wink:

Bob,
Yes I have the new transmission swapped in the car that is built with all the stuff upgraded including the input & output shafts. Also, I did listen to you about the biggest cooler I could find. See I do listen sometimes :-)

By the way, the new trans doesn't shift automatically and is full manual valve body with transbrake and O/D button.

Thank you for all the kind advise... I do very much appreciate it throughout the years.

Regards,
Tim

HRS PLY
08-14-2005, 09:09 PM
you will like it............ I have a very large stall in the car right now. Its a 4500 that acts like a 5500.......... time to have it tightened.